September was fashion month. Back-to-back fashion weeks took place, models were strutting on runways, celebrities celebrated at afterparties, and people of the culture occupied the streets of major cities around the globe—including New York.
To be frank, it’s a lot to stay on top of—even for experienced fashion week attendees. So for those who couldn’t keep up, here are some of the most memorable moments and trends from 2023 New York Fashion Week (NYFW).
- Peter Do’s Helmut Lang Debut
Back in May, I was surprised to hear that Peter Do was taking the top job at the storied Helmut Lang. Although I don’t usually watch runways, his debut collection at NYFW—which was released four months after he became creative director—did leave a lasting impression.
Born in Biên Hòa, Vietnam, Do studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, N.Y. and received the inaugural 2014 LVMH Graduate Prize. He gained experience in the ready-to-wear atelier at Céline before returning to the city to work with Derek Lam. In 2018, Do launched his eponymous label and quickly earned a cult following for his severe, sharp tailoring and downtown-cool appeal.
At NYFW, Do enlisted writer and former Boston College guest speaker Ocean Vuong to provide text designs and photos for his debut collection. Models strode across a concrete floor painted with original text written by Vuong during the collection’s launch event. To me, fashion brands collaborating with visual or literary artists always seemed counterintuitive (see JW Anderson x Pol Anglada)—if an artist with too strong of a style takes over, the show isn’t the brand’s anymore. But Do’s collection changed my mind. Helmut Lang’s iconic sharp designs, coupled with Vuong’s heart-aching words, offered a pleasant juxtaposition that proved Do’s aptitude once again.
- Tabis’ Renewal
For years, French luxury label Maison Margiela’s Tabi shoes have been a defining creation. Originally inspired by the traditional Japanese split-toe sock, the Tabi silhouette is striking. I own a pair of the Margiela x Reebok sneakers myself—but my friends make fun of the split toes and try to stick objects between them. At this year’s NYFW, I’d say the Tabis experienced a renewal of sorts. People’s interpretations of Tabis were varied and innovative. Attendees roamed the streets showcasing a gamut of variations—from sneaker-like alterations to classic leather boot renditions of the design. The divisive (literally) wild-but-somehow-wearable nature of the clove-toe Tabis will likely always be a talking point in the fashion community.
Some see the split-toed shoes as avant-garde, while others consider them an acquired taste. But there’s no denying their ability to grab attention. At NYFW, the versatility of the Tabi was on full display—Tabis were the cherry on top for edgy streetwear outfits and elegant ballet-core skirts. I truly believe that, although they may seem goofy at first, Tabis serve as an example of how fashion can be both nostalgic and futuristic, borrowing inspiration from the past while constantly pushing the envelope.
- Reinventing Workwear
Workwear, which used to imply Timberlands, suspenders, and painty denim, has always been a definite cornerstone. But the collections at NYFW this year provided a more fashionable take on what workwear implies. Dion Lee put wrenches on corsetry and sewed tool belts onto boots. Luar provided a subversive interpretation of workplace attire by logo-strapping ties tucked into formal dress slacks. Who Decides War took on utility with jackets featuring enormous pockets and pants with storage units, while maintaining its signature embroidery designs. Recently, with iconic workwear brands like Carhartt collaborating with more fashion houses known for their artistic essence, such as sacai x Carhartt WIP, I envision the tailored workwear trend continuing to lead the silhouette game in fashion.
